When it comes to suits, rules should be bent, but not broken by most of the people. There are many ways to look at the way history treats the trendsetters, and chances are you’ll run into some pretty funny images of broken rules that never quite took off. A suit in many ways is like a highly customizable uniform, with a base set that needs to be respected. So take a look at these few simple rules and try to learn the bulk of them. Well unless you’re a trendsetter, that is.
- 1 Fit Your Suit
- 2 Dress For the Event
- 3 Suits Rules You Need to Follow
- 4 Pocket Squares & Smartwatches
- 5 Accessories and Suits
- 6 Bending the Rules?
- 7 Final Words
Fit Your Suit
Many men will walk into a store and try out a suit on the rack without a problem. This isn’t a movie, so things will be a lot different! In real life, it might fit well off the rack, but it won’t fit great. Anyone can find a suit that fits well, but men that want to dress like champions never settle for anything less than great. The common misconception is that a suit needs to be tight in order to fit well.
This is where measurements come in. They are the best way to debunk that myth. A suit that is great for you will not only fit well, but will contain much needed breathing room in areas where you need movement.
A suit made for your exact measurements is completely useless on another person’s body. Which is why more consideration goes into balanced universal measurements when getting suits off of the rack. These are no good for anyone until they are made to fit.
Tailors are not the end all be all, but they’re close! Take the time to learn your actual measurements from head to toe. Neck measurements are as important as shoulders and hip, and some men need wide width dress shoes in order to make it through a day. Tailors are used a lot for a reason, as their alterations are so precise that it’s as close to perfection as you can get.
Consider a tailor when you have more than one suit to be altered, and there is a good chance you can get a deal. There’ a big difference between off-the-rack and a bespoke suit, which is a completely tailored suit, fit for your measurements.
If you’d like to bring in the suit of a champion by spending good money on it, the only option is a professional tailor. Anything less would be a waste of money and could very well ruin a perfectly good suit.
Fit Your Suit on a Budget
Personal alterations are a consideration for anyone that has a family member in the business. No, major alterations should not be blindly done by family members that have shown skills in knitting. Altering a suit to fit your body is more about touching the rough areas up, meaning it won’t be nearly as involved as professional tailoring. It is still a good alternative for anyone that doesn’t have the money for a professional, yet it should never be considered a full replacement.
This option becomes a lot less likely to use when the suit is of considerable value. When using off the rack suits an alteration is perfect, as there is little gain for sending a sub $100 suit to a tailor. The price to fit it to your measurements could very well be more than the suits worth, and in some areas the tailor won’t even consider it doing your suit as it would go against their own moral code.
We all know about suit colors and the foundation of black, charcoal grey and navy blue. But what about the other colors that get swept under the rug in favor of the foundation? And can these colors be mixed and matched?
Starting with the first question, the foundation should also consist of white. An incredible universal color, white goes hand and hand with black in many instances. If you’ve worn a black suit and everyone thought you were heading to a funeral, then some white may help. Add in a little white here and there, and all of a sudden you have a stylish match.
Now when trying to break from the common suit and ties combinations, there are many ways to decide what is best. Since grey can be a little bit of a “grey” area, consider medium grey as an alternative. Of all the shades of grey, this one will offer the most support when matched with the rest of your closet.
If you are feeling adventurous, then light grey is an alternative-but tread carefully. Light grey tends to mean different things depending on the fabric that is being used. That leads to uneven tones across all fabrics and leading brands.
Dark Brown & Mixing
The lone wolf when going outside of the foundation is the dark brown suit. It is a warm, comfortable and just all out impressive color when done right. But just like white, when too much of it is on at the same time it can be jarring. Personal skin tone also has to be taking into account when dealing with dark brown suits. And lastly, tan/khaki suits can be pulled off, and you don’t have to be over 70 years old to make it happen. There is a bit of push and pull when it comes to the overall outfit, yet the correct wearer can make it work.
This last paragraph will cover mixing and matching colors. At some point there will be an entire article covering this process, as it deserves its own space. So to keep it short, there is a reason good suits come in certain colors only. Mixing and matching is less about colors, and more about style.
Color does factor in on many cases, and can be the deciding factor. But when it comes to priority, the style is going to determine how the rest of the outfit goes. This can mean only matching certain brands, fabrics and even pieces. It’s a very confusing process that’s worth the effort to anyone that takes the time to understand it.
Match Your Shoes
Dress shoes are probably the easiest part to complete with a suit if done right. Try not to get too involved in all the extra work some people say are necessary for finding the correct fitting dress shoe. Keep in mind this is focusing on the actual fit, and not the color or type.
Exact measurements of a foot may be the recommendation that is thrown out by many professionals. Should you consider it in relation to a suit? Take a look at anyone you admire the most that wears a suit, and then ask them about their shoes. More often than not, the basics of choosing a shoe will come down to size, width and comfort.
These three things are the main concerns when choosing a dress shoe to go with any suit. However, that is based only on how it fits, and nothing more. A shoe that looks good but is murder on your feet will only lead to severe pains in the future. There is also the problem of movement and friction causing long term damage to your foot if the shoe doesn’t fit right.
Matching shoes with a suit is a lot more complex, and requires a lot more care when making a decision. Even if the default go to is black, it’s not true when people say black goes with everything.
It is however true that black is the least offensive color to pair with a suit. There are dedicated articles associated to matching shoes to suits, and it goes beyond colors to eventually mention styles.
Found the right color shoe to go with your suit, one that compliments both your belt and tie! Take a close look, as the style may end up being a big problem if it clashes with the rest of the outfit.
Dressing like a champion has a lot of layers, and the complexity of shoes are a big part of that. Taking the guessing work out of dress shoes will help to make the correct pairings. All of your suits will have a natural look, an alternate combination and an experimental one.
All of these looks represent you to the fullest, but you can’t get to that point without putting in the legwork to figure out the little stuff.
Dress For the Event
Champions are made through their actions. Nothing more, nothing less. So if your first act for the day is putting on a suit that represents your inner self, anything less than the perfect match is unacceptable. There are plenty of variations in style, with enough qualities in each piece to really make a difference. Ever wonder why coaches wear a suit and tie in basketball? It is called leading by example. And here is exactly how you do it.
Do you have suit etiquette? As in an awareness of when to (and not!) wear a suit? This will determine what you put on when it comes to events. It will also determine where you decide to put on a suit, period. Not all places are reserved for a suit and tie atmosphere.
Yet, there are places that have a strong requirement for dressing up and would be inaccessible without it. Having a plan in action that allows you to coordinate according to the occasion will help with confidence. Using that same logic, boosting other areas of your mentality are a single step behind once confidence becomes second nature.
Where to Wear a Suit
With an interview, it is rare that a job will consider a candidate that is dressed down compared to one that is dressed up. This is due to the confidence that is exuded from wearing a suit. With a high grasp of what it takes to be a winner, walking into your interview looking like a champion will place anyone on the short list of candidates to be hired.
A networking event is a bit different since moving around from one area to another is essential for getting hired. In this case wearing a suit that isn’t restricting and pairing it with shoes is important. Dress shoes are not the uncomfortable boats that people make them out to be. Even without additional support come out of the box as wearable as sports shoes.
Sticking to top brands like Tom Ford or Ralph Lauren will guarantee comfort without compromising style. There are plenty of comparison tables to look at (the best ones are onsite) that show how one brand stacks up against the other. Just remember, for networking specifically, you want the most comfortable dress shoe available.
There are places where wearing a suit will only draw negative attention and make you stand out like a sore thumb. These places include dive bars, kids’ birthday parties and of course any non-professional event where you’re expected to move a lot. No one is showing up to the gym with a tight fitting suit and not getting a sideways look. That statement isn’t meant to sound smart, but you’d be surprised how many men show up to party in a suit.
Now in the circumstance where you’re just getting off work and decided to drink for a bit, no one is going to give you flack. The important thing when it comes to avoiding a suit is to always keep in mind the people and the atmosphere you’ll be around. So while a champion in a suit can present a corporation saving presentation, that same guy in a suit is not the best person to spot at the gym.
Knowing your events will grant the appropriate mentality for preparing and wearing a suit. It is all about what the event represents and what status you want to be aligned to with all the people involved. With everyone else using the suit as their representative, take it a step further and climb into the role as the leader. Your example of being organized will raise personal status, and in such a way that no one can question your ambition. There are many perks to having this mentality, yet it can only start with managing your suit, tie, shoes and all accessories to match the event.
Suits Rules You Need to Follow
Now here are the phantom rules that may tick some people off. These rules are for nothing more than vanity, and hold no material substance. Trying to question them will give you a headache, and yet there are centuries of tradition behind the madness.
But, what about those that want to be adventurous? And just how important are the vanity rules when it comes to suits? The answers and suggestions are a bit surprising for more reasons than one.
You see that last button on your suit? Regardless of the suit cut, leave it unbuttoned. It has no other purpose than aesthetic. First time wearers of suits often run into this problem when surfaces. In order to get that smooth one handed opening and closing motion down, adhering to this task is vital. And if this is the hardest rule you have to follow all day then it becomes child’s play.
Leaving the last button on the suit alone follows the next rule, which is to unfasten your buttons when sitting. That one handed motion comes in handy in this instance, and has a little bit more to it than just visual pleasure. Still there are many that leave their suit buttoned up while sitting, and thus end up looking uncomfortable.
The unbuttoned shirt from the top is not a look that works when a tie is on, so tread carefully. A lot of people that leave the shirt unbuttoned at the top just need a good tailor. When the shirt is uncomfortable to the point it is chocking you, then a good tailor is in order. And if you absolutely have to have the top buttons undone, then take off your tie! Being visually stunning does not mean it should be done at the sacrifice of being comfortable.
Pocket Squares & Smartwatches
Pocket squares are an underappreciated bunch, yet hold great value to complete the look of a suit. Small and effective, they deserve to be as sharp as the suit. That means being careful with colors, fabrics and placement. Pocket squares should always be ironed, as wrinkled up shrivels of fabric hanging out of your pocket is unattractive.
In fact, wrinkled pocket squares look like used napkins to the untrained eye. Pocket squares should also maintain opposite colors when available, meaning that a dark suit should have a light pocket square. Switch that around depending on the suit, and you have a winner.
This last visual rule is a bit hit or miss depending on who you talk to, even in the professional world. It has to do with watches. Sports watches are a no-no when you’re wearing a suit, and it’s considered a bad pairing. That used to be the tradition and majority thinking. But with the invention of smartwatches, things have become a bit blurry in that field.
To help things out, major smartwatch developers have offered styling ‘add-on’s for their hardware. That means if you have a sports watch you can change the look to a suit appropriate styling in a matter of minutes. Let’s face it, if you dropped almost half a grand on a smartwatch to pair with your phone, you’re wearing it regardless of the suit!
Accessories and Suits
The accessory crazy with the suit is nowhere near the craze for iPhone accessories. Yet there still remains a lot of options for someone that may be a too ambitious for their own good. Like all things concerning the suit there is a balance, so take that into consideration. When it gets to the point where they make the wearer look like a five star general, then it has gone overboard.
The most overused accessory is one that people wouldn’t consider part of the suit-cologne. Counting cologne as an accessory of a suit is not a big stretch. But when one spritz becomes too many, then it becomes overbearing.
This is a hard message to convey to someone applying the cologne, as the scent will be somewhat masked. When in doubt, one spray is enough, and the suit should arrive long before the smell.
Pins are another accessory that is prone to overabundance. The beauty of a Red Rose Lapel pin is breathtaking, and almost better than the real thing. This is especially true when it comes to silvers, golds and even platinum’s. Depending on the event, pins may be required. Walking into a charity event that hands you a pin to wear simplifies things if you don’t already have 100 attached.
Pins are a part of your suit only if you allow them, and only if the event requires them. So if your pin looks like it is telling a story on your chest then it’s time to scale it back. Which leads to the next accessory, and one of the serial rule breakers.
Cufflinks are the easiest accessory to match with a suit, but the biggest rule breaker when it comes to diversifying. Owning 4 suits and one pair of cufflinks doesn’t mean the cufflinks go with all the suits. That is due to the metal being different from your belt, watch and the other accessories. They should all match up just like any other accessory you wear, rather than being the outlier.
Having a collection of cufflinks beyond a single pair is a very good way to get a feel for them. There is nothing about building a collection of cufflinks and having choices when you match up suits.
Final Note On Accessories
For those that wear suspenders, it’s important to note that wearing a belt with them is redundant. Both young and old wearers have dabbled in suspenders, as they offer a unique look. Once again, it is all about diversifying your look and feeling comfortable in your own skin. So if you feel the need to put on suspenders with your suit, leave the belt at home. As a rule of etiquette, it’s always a good idea to wear a sport coat or suit jacket when you do.
Even with the worst accessories attached there is always room for improvement in the actual suit. That means spending more time making the suit perfect pre-accessory and adding the finishing touches later. When you use accessories to enhance an already perfect suit, it becomes a beautiful combo that completes your vision.
Don’t let the accessories make the suit or you’ll be working backwards from the start. Don’t be afraid to experiment with combinations and get out of your comfort zone when it comes to matching.
Bending the Rules?
All of the rules of etiquette are bent or totally destroyed at one point. They remain in effect for a reason, even when it comes to watches. That is about the most leniency you’ll see in a lot of areas, yet there still remains this incredible freedom with dressing up.
Having an idea of how to dress in a suit is one thing. Having unlimited brands, time and plenty of motivation is even better. Rules or not, suits are the best way to exude confidence while still looking good.
As long as you’re confident in the suit you step into, then it’s a perfect match. Suits are meant to boost confidence and be comfortable. Find the layer in your suit that is giving you the most trouble, and attack it.
If it is something small like a belt, then congratulations! You’re a step ahead of millions of men. If it is something more external like matching colors or styles, then take the time to find out what you don’t know.
Practice makes perfect, and this is going to be the beginning of a very fruitful affair. So remember that dressing like a champion is all about image, and you’re the lead artist in charge.