Men’s Dress Shirt Guide: Styles & Types

There are myriad dress shirt styles a man can choose from.

But how do we know when we’ve found the right one, especially with so many different styles, colors, and fits?

Each shirt is as unique as the individual who wears it.

Understanding the sartorial importance of a dress shirt is essential to buying a well-fitted one.

How to Properly Fit Your Dress Shirt

The term “one size fits all” is seldom ever the case. Finding the right dress shirt size is undoubtedly no exception.

In fact, there are so many elements to consider. But a generic size is rarely compatible enough to fit every individual properly.

But how do we establish which size is best for us? Doing some proper measurements will be a good start.

The ultimate goal of clarifying all dress shirt styles is to provide men with a tool to find their perfect fit.

If one part is either too tight or too loose, it will be uncomfortable and lack the crisp overall presentation we all desire.

A dress shirt that is either too big or too small is clear through its body, collar, shoulders, and sleeves.

No one likes wearing a dress shirt so tight that the buttons are pulling. Thus, you’re left feeling exposed and uncomfortable.

On the other hand, there are probably very few people who like to look like they’re swimming in their shirts.

A delicate balance is needed when choosing which size, shape, and style work best for you.

Also, a helpful tip would be to ask yourself, “Does this look professional but also feel comfortable?”

This is especially true when choosing the right fit for your specific body shape and needs.

The truth is that all parts on their own are just as important as they are together as a whole.

Dress Shirt Fit Types

There is certainly an upside to having many different options for the dress shirt cut.

However, this also means that choosing which one works best for you can be somewhat overwhelming.

Classic Fit Dress Shirts

The classic fit dress shirt is the type that has a timeless presence. It is, indeed, one of the most traditional dress shirt styles on the market.

It is ultimately a shirt with a bit of a boxier shape, slightly looser around the arms and body.

The classic fit allows the wearer to move about freely, without feeling or looking as restricted as they might with a more streamlined shirt.

Granted, this style can be a bit much for thinner frames. However, it does work well for those needing a bit more room around their midsection.

Although this style is still the first choice for many, there has been a recent shift in how individuals, particularly younger men, like their dress shirts to fit.

Because it has become more acceptable for men to wear dress shirts without a jacket, a more fitted look has become widely popular. Thus, introducing our next style.

Modern-Fit Dress Shirts

A modern-fit dress shirt falls somewhere between the classic and slim fit. It provides an in-between look of tight and roomy.

This look ultimately keeps the comfort of the classic fit but brings in the more tapered look of the slim fit option mentioned above.

The modern-fit option lets you wear it stylishly without a jacket while also preventing it from billowing where it shouldn’t.

Slim Fit Dress Shirts

Slim-fit dress shirts are arguably the most popular fit today.

That’s because they provide a much more tailored look than classic and modern shirts.

The style of this shirt is considered trendier, offering a sleeker, more distinguished look. It is mainly a result of the limited need for excess fabric.

Considering this fit is on the slimmer end of dress shirts, this style would be most appropriate for individuals whose physiques would fall on the slimmer side, too.

Skinny Fit Dress Shirts

The skinny-fit dress shirt style provides a very slim cut around the chest and shoulders. As a result, it is a trendy choice amongst younger or thinner men.

Similar to the slim fit option, this one reinforces the idea that you’ll need to be rather thin to feel comfortable in it.

Truthfully, there are many different dress shirt styles, which can be somewhat confusing at first.

However, you can find comfort in knowing that, regardless of your size and shape, there is a style that will be perfect for you.

Dress Shirt Collar Styles

The shirt collar is the piece of fabric that surrounds the neck. Its job is to properly frame the wearer’s face.

Just as every shirt has a unique fit that works best for different individuals, so too are collars.

When choosing a collar, several factors should be considered to ensure comfort, practicality, and style.

Straight Point Collar

A straight point collar is the most classic collar style.

With its elongated collar, this option is said to create a slimming effect. It is particularly useful for individuals with rounder faces or shorter necks.

Semi-Spread Collar

The semi-spread collar is similar to the previous style but has a more casual look.

This option is less stiff and is said to be suitable for tall men with longer necks.

The Cutaway Collar

The cutaway collar is one of the slightly shorter collars. This style includes a reduced collar length and wider ends

It’s not necessarily your best tie-wearing option, but it provides a more casual look.

The Spread Collar

The spread collar is another casual option, but with a more modern and elegant look. This style is characterized by having a far more unified length and width than those previously mentioned.

The spread collar has a more proportionate point length. Therefore, it is a universal style commonly chosen by men with elongated faces.

The Long Button-Down Collar

The long button-down collar is exactly what it sounds like and thus provides us with the least formal look so far.

This style differs from the previously mentioned styles, as it has buttons at the bottom of the collar points that connect them to the shirt.

This style is popular amongst younger men and those seeking a less formal business look. However, they can still maintain the classy appearance they desire.

The Short Button-Down Collar

The short button-down collar is very similar to the long button-down collar but simply smaller.

These two styles are very similar; however, the shorter length of this collar provides an even more youthful, casual look.

The Club Collar

The club collar could be considered the most elite style, as it was initially designed for school uniforms. This collar was created to establish a separate look for students to wear.

This way, individuals could still look well-put-together in their uniforms while also staying comfortable and practical.

The club collar is versatile, thanks to its shortened length, while still maintaining a professional look.

The Band Collar

The band collar is the most casual style. It is, quite simply, a band that sits about 3 centimeters from the base of a dress shirt.

This collar style features a single button done up just above the collarbone. Although this style would still be a classy option, it does not allow for a tie.

The Wingtip Collar

The wingtip collar may be the last collar style, but it is certainly not the least.

Also referred to as the tuxedo shirt, this is the most formal option. In fact, this style was created solely for wearing with a bow tie.

This collar is likely the easiest to differentiate from the rest, as it has very small points that are only placed in the front.

This style is mainly worn with a tuxedo or tailcoat. Therefore, it’s created not for a particular shape or individual but rather for a specific look.

Dress Shirt Colors & Patterns

You’ve established which fit and style work best for your specific build.

The next step is figuring out which shirt colors, patterns, and fabrics are most appropriate and flattering for each occasion.

White Dress Shirt

Not all shirts are created equal. A solid white shirt is a timeless piece that businesspeople have used for years with a crisp black suit.

It has been said that the lighter the color of the shirt you wear, the likelier you are to work with your mind rather than your hands.

Thus, a white dress shirt is considered to be the most formal and traditional look. It is arguably your best option for a crisp, classy appearance.

Solid Shirts

Solid shirts, precisely pink and blue, are considered staple pieces in the suit game (among white).

Light pink, light blue, lavender, pale blue, and light grey colors are all considered formal choices for a dress shirt.

On the other hand, navy and black dress shirts are a trendier, slightly informal option and are probably a better choice for a semi-formal or cocktail event.

Striped Shirts

When it comes to striped shirts, there are so many different variations you can choose from. Wearing a striped shirt is less formal but still seen as a business look.

Although more casual, this idea of color or stripes can add a twist to your solid black suit, which many people see as a way to express their individuality.

Checked Shirts

Checked shirts are another great option for a more casual look.

One tip when choosing a dress shirt pattern is to consider which shirt best complements your physique and the occasion.

If you are someone, for example, with a smaller frame but trying to look wider, a checked shirt would create that illusion.

However, if you are trying to look smaller or slimmer, a solid color might be the best option.

Dress Shirt Cuff Styles

Just as we discussed how important collars are in the dress shirt selection process, cuffs are equally as crucial a detail.

Although it may seem like a simple part of a dress shirt, how a cuff sits and how it looks in combination with the rest of an outfit determine its level of formality.

Because cuffs are part of a dress shirt that will wear out sooner than the body, higher-quality shirts will have replaceable cuffs.

But the question is: which cuff style works best to help you get the perfect dress shirt?

Barrel Cuff Dress Shirt

The most popular cuff style is the barrel cuff. It gets its name from its rounded appearance.

This shape would be considered the most common cuff because it is casual enough to be worn in a more dressed-down state while also dressy enough to be paired with a suit.

Single Cuff Dress Shirt

The single cuff is predominantly worn at a white-tie affair and is paired with cufflinks. This look is similar to the barrel cuff but is ultimately closed off by cufflinks rather than buttons that are sewn on, making it a much more formal option.

French Cuff Dress Shirt

The French cuff also requires cufflinks. However, it has a “double cuff.” It means the cuffs are twice as long as other options and therefore end up thicker once doubled over and secured with a cufflink.

Convertible Cuff Dress Shirt

A convertible cuff offers the greatest flexibility, as it can be closed with a cufflink or a button. The convertible cuff is preferred by many because it can be custom-designed to the wearer’s preferences.

Cocktail Cuff Dress Shirt

The cocktail cuff, or the “Turnback Cuff,” is also known as the “James Bond Cuff.” This style is for gentlemen who want to go above and beyond to create a very suave appearance.

This cuff style can only be created at custom shops. Therefore, it is certainly more of a rarity to come by.

Dress Shirt Styles & Details

All dress shirt styles are adorned with many details throughout. It makes each one different from the next.

Even the dress shirt hem completely redefines the style and formality.

These small details are a rare sight today. In fact, many minor details, such as engravings and designs on plastic buttons, have become prevalent as a result.

Dress Shirt Buttons

The buttons of a dress shirt are a detail that many individuals may overlook. But in reality, this part can add a whole other level of class and sophistication if you take the time to notice it.

Many buttons are simple plastic ones. It is an inexpensive yet reliable option. However, it doesn’t mean that all dress shirts made this way are the same.

Each shirt is unique in how it looks and fits, even if the buttons are the standard plastic buttons found on many other dress shirts.

When it comes to alternative materials and details, some very high-quality shirts have Mother of Pearl as a substitute for plastic buttons.

These buttons, made from shell fragments, were once the industry standard. It’s their tough exterior and eloquent addition to the overall garment that make them exclusive.

Dress Shirt Pocket

You may have noticed that pretty much every dress shirt has a pocket over the left breast. But do most men ever use this pocket?

The simple answer is – probably not. However, this simple addition to a shirt adds depth and texture. Besides, it makes it more about design and formality than anything else.

Dress Shirt Monograms

One of the most personal touches on a dress shirt could arguably be the addition of a monogram.

Having one’s initials placed on their shirt, whether hidden or boldly displayed, adds a lovely personal touch. Above all else, this simple addition makes the shirt entirely and uniquely yours.

Dress Shirt Styles: Front Placket Types

The placket refers to the fabric that holds the shirt’s buttons and holes. Located at the center of your shirt, it is one of the shirt’s essential components.

Front Placket

A front placket is the most common style for a dress shirt. It is a universal option that is favored by many. It is one of the most classic dress shirt styles you would find, where the fabric is ultimately folded over and sewn together.

No Front Placket

The no-front placket, known as “French placket”, is a trendy style as it works well on either business or casual shirts. This style differs from the front placket option, as it doesn’t have a folded placket.

Covered Placket

The covered placket, also called the “Fly Front”, is a more formal option as a tuxedo typically accompanies it. This particular look features an extra piece of fabric that covers the buttons, resulting in a clean look.

Dress Shirt Styles: Back Pleat

A pleat is a fold of fabric upon itself, tightened at one spot. When it comes to the back of a man’s dress shirt, there are only a handful of different pleat styles to choose from.

No Pleats

The first is quite simple – no pleats. This ultimately means that the back will have a crisp, finished look. It is an excellent option for more fitted shirts.

Rear Side Pleats

These pleats on the back of the shirt add 2 inches of fabric to the shoulders.

The rear-side pleats are not only for design but also for functionality. The excess fabric helps increase one’s range of motion.

Center Box Pleats

The center box pleat is a traditional style that includes two pleats down the middle of the back of the shirt, creating a “box”-like effect.

It once again increases the range of motion for individuals wearing this type of dress shirt.

Dart Pleats

The dart pleat was initially designed as an option to trim the shirt slightly. It means that two darts will be inserted in the back, one on each side.

It eliminates fabric, creating a neat, sophisticated look by slimming the shirt.