Men’s Ties: Fabrics, Style and How to Tie a Tie

Men’s ties might seem like a minor detail in the overall outfit. Or so you might think…

In fact, nothing says more about the man than a well-chosen tie with a knot that’s entirely appropriate for the occasion.

This in-depth men’s ties guide will help you feel better informed and more confident when buying and wearing a tie.

We’ll start with the basics and explore a topic that baffled many men since neckties first arrived on the scene: which is the best knot, and how do you tie a tie, anyway?

How to Tie a Tie

There are plenty of ways to tie a tie (necktie), but we will consider the most used and popular knots:

The Simple Knot

This easy-to-tie knot is also known as the Oriental knot. It’s not that common in the West but is considered trendy in countries like China.

The Oriental method uses the fewest steps and is ideal for a skinny tie, as it keeps the knot small. It’s also advantageous for taller men who need length to balance their looks.

1. Begin with the tie’s wide end on your right-hand side and the narrow end on your left.
2. Position the small end tip just above your belly button.
3. Wind the broader portion under the narrow end towards the left, then back across towards the right.
4. Take the wide tip up towards the neck, then back down through the loop just formed at the front.
5. Tighten the knot by pulling downwards on the wider end, simultaneously sliding the knot upwards. That’s it; you’re good to go!

The disadvantages of this knot are that it can be difficult to untie and that the result is asymmetrical. It makes the knot lean over to one side.

That said, if you’re into time-saving minimalism or skinny ties, this is the knot for you!

The Four-in-Hand Knot

This is a true classic. Named after a famous gentlemen’s club in London, it is sometimes referred to as the schoolboy knot.

It’s probably the most popular knot in the West for many good reasons. Simple to tie, versatile to wear, only slightly asymmetrical, and best of all, it’s self-releasing.

The four-in-hand is your go-to, everyday knot, whether you’re a schoolboy or a busy company exec. Here’s how to do it:

1. Place the tie around the neck and cross the wide part over the front of the narrow portion of the tie.
2. Wrap behind the narrow part and bring forward on the opposite side to cross horizontally at the front.
3. Fold beneath the narrow part a second time, then pull up over the knot from behind.
4. Tuck the wide tip behind the horizontal pass, then pull to tighten the knot.
5. Slide the knot up towards the neck until it fits snugly but comfortably. Looking good!

The Full Windsor Knot

This classic knot is named after the Duke of Windsor.

Funnily enough, the Grand Duke never actually wore this knot. Instead, he preferred the Four-in-Hand with very wide neckties.

Despite this fact, society loved the look, and soon men from all classes emulated his style. Using regular-width ties, they eventually came up with what we today call the Full Windsor.

It creates a neat, symmetrical, triangular knot that works particularly well with spread-collared shirts. The famous Half Windsor is the less formal version of this now timeless classic.

It’s fair to say that the Full Windsor belongs to one of the more advanced knots. But never fear; with a little practice, you, too, can look like royalty:

1. Place around the neck and cross the wide end over the front of the narrower part.
2. Push the wide end behind the narrow part and push it up and through the loop.
3. Wrap the wide end behind the knot.
4. From the front, pull the wide end back and down over the top of the knot.
5. Again, wrap around the knot.
6. From behind, bring the wide end up over the top of the knot.
7. Then, push the tip down inside the loop.
8. Smooth out any wrinkles and pull snug around the neck.

If it doesn’t look right, undo it and start again by adjusting the length of the wide or narrow parts. And remember, a perfect Windsor knot can only be created with practice!

The Balthus Knot

If you want your tie to make a statement rather than just blend in, this one’s for you. The Balthus is arty, big, and takes a degree of confidence to wear.

First worn back in the 1930s by the Polish-French artist Balthasar Klossowski, it caused quite a stir. Its size is due to the wide end being wrapped many times around the narrow end.

As a result, the tie ends up being very short. Wear it if you dare, and you’ll most definitely get noticed:

1. With the broad end on the right, place it around the neck with the back of the tie facing forward.
2. To your left, push the wide end underneath the narrow end.
3. Pull up the middle towards the loop.
4. Push through the loop and back down to the right.
5. Again, pull the wide tip back up to the center and towards the loop.
6. Push down through the loop, this time to the left.
7. Pull back up toward the center of the loop.
8. Slip the wide tip into the loop and pull down to the right side again.
9. Fold it to the left across the narrow front side.
10. Pull back up inside the loop.
11. Pass it back down through the loop at the front.
12. Pull down to tighten, then slide up to fit snugly around the neck. Tying a Bathus knot is no mean feat, so well done if you got it right the first time!

Tie Fabrics

Tie fabrics are essential when matching your tie with a suit.

Silk

Silk is the classic tie fabric used in its manufacture for generations. You can wear these men’s ties in any season and on almost any occasion.

But you must choose the color and pattern you wear carefully if you want the best results.

It takes around 150 silkworms to produce enough raw material for just one tie, which is why silk ties are expensive and problematic for animal rights advocates.

Cashmere

Cashmere is a beautifully soft, natural fabric that makes for an elegant knot.

It’s best worn in winter and provides a truly luxurious finish to your cold-weather outfits.

Cotton

Cotton is more suitable for spring and summer. It creates a less formal look, so wearing a cotton necktie with a business suit is not advisable. Instead, keep your cotton ties for weekend wear with more casual linen suits.

Linen

You should only wear linen ties on hot summer days. They’re light and comfortable but tend to wrinkle easily. A linen tie goes well with a lightweight suit and a cotton dress shirt.

Wool

Wool ties are often made from the same material as your suit. Therefore, they are best for cold days in autumn and winter.

Woolen ties can be a little bulky, so get an unlined one to reduce the knot’s volume.

Avoid wearing heavy suits. Worn as an accessory with a cotton suit, a wool tie will help balance your overall look.

Knits

Knit ties are not very common, and many men don’t know how to wear them properly. They are straight along the bottom edge and along the sides rather than tapered.

Knit men’s ties are more casual and relaxed and should not be worn on formal occasions. They can work well with a business suit, but you might want to wear a silk knit tie instead.

Knit ties don’t crease like other men’s ties, making them ideal for travel.

Synthetics

For those who prefer to forgo the silk ties option, perfectly acceptable man-made fabrics are available. Many of them feel and look very similar to genuine silk.

Synthetic ties are cheap and vegan-friendly, come in a wide range of colors, and are crease-resistant.

Polyester ties are generally the most affordable, but they can look cheap, too. I’d recommend microfiber instead. It’s almost indistinguishable from silk and half the price.

Tie Patterns

I will try to sort all the different tie styles and patterns by usefulness, which is not necessarily accountable. The point is that every type of necktie has its place on the stage.

Solid Ties

Solid ties are ties of a single color or pattern and are essential fashion components. Every man’s core wardrobe should contain at least one red tie and another in a dark blue shade.

Think twice before purchasing a solid black tie. I mean, is it really necessary? Also, combining a black tie with a white shirt is too much déjà vu and will not set you apart from the crowd.

Macclesfield Ties

Macclesfield ties are also a great option. They are traditionally British and distinguished by their geometric diamond or square designs – a perfect match for your classic fit suit.

In fact, the Macclesfield was once called the “wedding tie” because of the silver sheen that enhances its grey or white color. They are inherently formal and work well with morning dress.

Foulard Ties

A classic tie, if I may say, appropriate for any occasion. Foulard ties have a repeated and most likely geometric pattern. The blocks do not change in size (nor shape), expressing the seriousness of the wearer.

Patterns can be any geometric objects, carefully designed shapes, or even flowers. Let this not intimidate you, for they can look stylish and formal at the same time.

Club Ties

Despite their original intent, nowadays, club ties are characterized by a series of symbols. Back in the day, club ties symbolized membership in a private club.

Therefore, the name “club ties”. The club’s insight defined the color, and it was obligatory to enter the club’s facilities.

Striped Ties

Stripped ties are best suited for formal occasions, business meetings, or any work events. There are three main subcategories of striped ties:

British Striped Ties

Known initially as British regimental striped ties, they are famous for their downward-stripping from the wearer’s left shoulder to his right. They can be present in various colors and materials and are considered an essential piece of a man’s tie collection.

American Striped Ties

Considered to be a modern variation of the British striped ties. The only difference is that their stripes run downwards from the wearer’s right shoulder to his left one.

Repp Striped Ties

Repp stripe ties are one of the most popular types of patterned men’s ties. The diagonal stripes are a weave, not a pattern. Thus, create a highly versatile tie that can be worn in the office and on dinner dates.

Dotted Ties

Once upon a time, dots and spots were strictly women’s wear only. But today they are perfectly acceptable for men. They work well with a striped suit and lend a playful edge to an otherwise formal outfit.

Dotted ties can be a perfect choice for more occasional meetings. Try pairing them with a nice, solid shirt and a suit. Avoid using them too much, though. Having one dotted tie for your wardrobe can be enough.

Plaid Ties

Plaid ties have Scottish origins. Their pattern of regular stripes and squares is highly recognizable. The pattern goes down from both sides at an angle, forming diamonds where they cross.

These types of men’s ties are more suited for casual events. They pair nicely with striped suits or shirts. Avoid too many colors in them, and you are good.

Paisley Ties

They are characterized by a repeated, curved Persian-origin pattern. Paisley ties have mostly abstract designs and serve as casual wardrobe pieces. Never wear them with suits or at any formal event.

Ties & Accessories

You’ve spent time getting your suit pants and jacket to fit perfectly. So it makes sense to give some thought to the fit of your tie, too.

A lot of men get confused when choosing a tie.

Which patterns look best? Which tie colors go best with which shirts? How do you know if the tie you’re buying is of good quality?

Choosing the correct width and length for your body size and shape can also be an issue. And that’s all before you start thinking about the knot.

Tie Proportions

Although tie width varies with fashion trends and personal preferences, there are a few guidelines that every man should follow. The size of your tie, for example.

As a rule of thumb, your tie’s widest part should match the widest part of the suit lapel. Also, it should match the width of the shirt’s collar.

Ties for Short Men

The size of your tie matters, just as the size of your suit. The aim of any fashion item for shorter men is to draw the eye vertically rather than horizontally. Proportion is all-important here.

Shorter gents should avoid oversized, wide ties in large, bold patterns. Instead, skinnier ties in colors that are not too flashy or overpowering are best.

How to Fit a Tie

When it comes to length, many men wear ties way too short. So, unless you’re making a statement, your tie tip should just touch the center of your waistband.

You will need to adjust the knot type and always ensure you buy the correct tie length for your height.

The back blade length should match the front before you make the knot. If it doesn’t, you need to purchase longer ties.

Simply stated: the widest part of your lapel and your tie’s broadest part should be the same. The result should touch your waistband.

Men’s Ties Color Combinations

There are a few standard color combinations that every man should know. For example, a dark grey suit is a classic that pairs well with a black tie for those formal occasions.

Just be sure to wear a light shirt underneath. Pale blue or white are always on-trend. Red ties in various shades also look great with grey suits, especially paired with a white dress shirt.

A navy suit is another color that every man should own. This color will take you from the office to a wedding. It’s elegant and entirely classic, so pair it with similarly dapper ties.

Navy can be worn with several colors of men’s ties – from dark brown to bright pink.

As with any clothing item, give them a miss if certain color combinations make you uncomfortable or unsure.

Tie Clips

Tie clips are great for accessorizing formal suits. They usually come in the form of a small metal bar and are both decorative and practical. They hold your tie in place by fixing it to the shirt placket.

Again, the devil is in the details, and if you wear a tie clip, it’s crucial to get it right.

Attach the clip horizontally, from left to right, between the third and fourth buttons on your shirt. Remember, understatement is key, and your tie clip should have a simple, elegant design. Silver is a good color choice here.

For more casual outfits, you can look for other colors and designs that express your individuality. Short men should avoid flashy, obvious tie clips. These will visually cut the body in half rather than elongating it.

Bow Ties vs. Neckties

Bow ties are different. They’re a special type of tie. It’s symmetrically tied around the shirt’s collar.

There are three types of bow ties: pre-tied, clip-on, and self-tie. They come in several shapes: butterfly, batwing, big (jumbo) butterfly, diamond point, and slim diamond point.

Bow ties are subject to their own. They come with their own set of formal occasion rules that men must be aware of. But apart from that, you can have a lot of fun with a bow tie.

To learn more about bow ties, I strongly recommend this guide.