Most men in their lifetime will, at some point, have been faced with the choice of whether they should purchase a ready-to-wear suit (also known as ”off-the-rack”), a made-to-measure, or a bespoke suit specially tailored to provide them with the perfect look and fit.
The difference between the three options is huge. Let me explain why.
It would be helpful to understand that each of the above options has its rightful role.
Whichever you choose will depend on your specific clothing needs at the time, the type of occasion you’re attending, and how much you are willing to spend.
That being said, the price you pay for a suit does not necessarily correspond to the quality or fit. However, it can be quite an accurate indicator.
Ready-to-Wear Suits
We’ll start with ready-to-wear suits. These are the embodiment of factory efficiency. They are made to standard measurements in the factory where they are mass-produced.
They are, therefore, usually affordable. Besides, if you are a fairly standard size and shape, you will probably find one that fits you fairly well.
Ready-to-wear suits (a.k.a, off-the-rack) will come in a standard range of colors and styles, along with a small selection of classic cuts that never go out of fashion.
The fabrics are generally not produced to the highest and best quality standards. Most suits are made from polyester blends or similar materials.
The maximum amount of advice you’ll get when purchasing one of these suits in a department store will most likely come from a poorly trained shop assistant.
Their main intention will be to sell you the suit without causing you too much offense.
Therefore, the focus of the sale’s pitch will generally be on color choices while overlooking the most important thing of all – how the suit fits.
Most clothing today falls under this category. If you’re a standard shape and size with a smaller budget, this type of suit is the way to go.
One big plus is that you can walk in, buy your suit, and wear it on the same day.
Disadvantages of the Ready-to-Wear Suits
At the time of the Industrial Revolution, mass-produced clothing became affordable.
However, it was easy to spot the difference between factory-produced and professionally tailored suits. The latter was clearly better in terms of the fabric’s cut, fit, and quality.
Today’s modern technology has made factory-produced items much better than ever. The gap between ready-to-wear and handmade has somewhat narrowed.
However, you will still choose from a limited range of colors, fabric types, and shapes.
Of the three, this option gives the customer the least control over size, fit, and the quality of workmanship and materials.
These suits will not have been checked thoroughly to ensure every detail is perfect, so there may be some flaws.
Another downside to buying off-the-rack is that sometimes the racks aren’t full.
Who hasn’t experienced the frustration of needing a suit, finally finding one in the shop that seems right, only to find that they don’t have your size in stock?
Or of finding a good fit that’s only available in blue when you need black?
Made-to-Measure Suits
The made-to-measure niche has evolved to fill the gap between off-the-rack and very expensive bespoke suits.
The average consumer will be hard-pressed to tell the difference between a made-to-measure and a bespoke suit. Made-to-measure means that your suit will be custom-made using a pre-existing standard block pattern.
The necessary parts are collected and pieced together rather than using a specially cut paper pattern.
A few measurements are taken, and a fitting or two is usually required. Prices are generally slightly higher (about 15%) than those of off-the-rack garments.
The made-to-measure process allows the client a little more control. The greater the control he has, the closer he leans towards a bespoke suit, which will cost more.
Nevertheless, it is entirely possible to have a beautiful suit with a perfect fit when using the made-to-measure process.
The gap is closing between the categories of made-to-measure and bespoke, and these days you can even find genuine handwork in this category.
The main advantages of made-to-measure are a good suit fit and the customer’s greater control over fabric and color choices.
However, the significant disadvantage is that the suits can take up to a few weeks to be made up and delivered to the customer.
Bespoke Suits
Bespoke is at the high end of the market and caters to the select few who can afford it.
It gives the customer more say in the production and finishing of their suit from start to finish. They can choose the fabric, the fit, and even the type of buttons used to finish the garment.
The word “bespoke” means “to give an order for something to be made”. In women’s clothing, this is called “haute couture”.
A bespoke suit will be almost entirely handmade, with an individual paper pattern cut for that specific customer.
Personal service is provided throughout the process, and several fittings are conducted to ensure a perfect cut. In the long-ago past, all suits were bespoke suits.
The wealthy had theirs made by tailors, while the not-so-wealthy would have their garments cut and stitched by a family member. Luckily, times have changed.
If you choose the bespoke route, it’s important to make your needs clear to your tailor. Tell him what the suit will be used for and what you’re expecting.
Consider the climate and the time of day you plan to wear a suit. Listen to your tailor as his advice is invaluable.
He will guide you on the different cut types, which shade of fabric suits your skin and hair color, and which pattern works best for your build.
Why You Should Consider Bespoke Suits
Sometimes, as many as fifty different measurements will be taken. The customer can choose from many different fabrics, and records are kept of all preferences and measurements for any future needs.
The individual pattern is then kept safe, and the customer’s details are stored indefinitely.
Suffice to say then that bespoke suits are an art form. They are the result of a handcraft that has often been passed down through successive generations of tailors.
These garments will last much longer than ready-to-wear suits. Besides, the quality of the fabric is far better. The entire by-hand process is much more precise, with the correct number of stitches per inch.
The tailor will check every seam and every detail before handing the completed suit over to you.
Which is the Best?
Now that we’ve defined each category, the question remains. Which is best? Does a tailored suit just for you make that much difference?
Yes, it does. But for most men, however, the word “bespoke” automatically translates as expensive.
But, when you consider how much longer these garments last, the price/value ratio speaks for itself. Bespoke suits also showcase your personal style and let you be more creative with your wardrobe.
Lastly, they give you the edge because a well-cut suit in a great fabric speaks of prestige, class, and underlying confidence.
How Important is the Fit?
Does fit matter? Absolutely. A good fit lets you show off your body in a flattering way, no matter what shape you’re in.
In addition, a great-fitting suit will give you the edge both in your career and with potential mates.
Custom-made clothing that fits well also provides unprecedented comfort, allowing you to get on with your day without feeling restricted and uncomfortable.
Having a suit custom-made means you can expect greater comfort around the collar, choose the sleeve length, and adjust the body length to complement your height.
A lot of men try to dress for the body they want rather than the body they have. Therefore, they often pick a size that’s too baggy. When you pay a tailor to make a suit for you, you’ll receive expert advice on all these details.
Even if you are a little self-conscious about not being in your best shape ever, your tailor can advise you on how to show off your best features while downplaying the less flattering parts.
Nothing will conceal what you’d rather keep hidden if the suit’s fit isn’t right. No matter how expensive the fabric or how precise the stitching.
A well-made suit in the right fit should be seen as a long-term investment. Over time, it will actually save you money. So, isn’t it always a good idea to go for the best suit you can afford?
Hi, I'm Alex, and I've studied and specialized in styling in Rome. Through my writing, I want to help men dress well and learn the purpose and significance of suits and other formal attire. My final goal is to make men more confident in their wardrobe choice and life in general.
I like that you talked about how bespoke suits require multiple fittings to make sure that your suit fits perfectly. My uncle is excited to attend his friend’s wedding this summer, but he has been having trouble finding a suit that fits him since he is particularly tall. Maybe he should consider getting a bespoke suit that will properly fit him.